You can try a few simple steps to correct the problem. Do you want to reduce the amount of dust your brakes pads release? Posted on Jul 12, 2010 lube the latch mechanism and with a screw driver try to lock the latch. Be sure to replace the wear sensor when replacing the pads if they appear to be worn. Once you do open the hood, always address the underlying problem before you close it again. Pulling on this tongue will release the hood When you open the hood the angle is initially restricted to about 45 degrees which is fine for minor jobs.
I can't speak for your model, but on the 123's you don't need to bust apart anything, even with the black plastic housing in place. This might be a little more than most people are willing to do, but it worked for me. When you do get it open, put a few drops of oil on the latch mechanism, and see if any adjustments can be made to open it easier either on the hood itself, or the latch mechanism. The lever would have to move towards the driver's side to pop the latch. If it works, the hood will shift and raise slightly, and can then be opened with the exterior latch. Inspect the latch after opening.
Let the engine idle for a while to thaw frozen parts, then try opening the hood again. If your cable breaks up near the latch hood like mine, your only real option is to bust out the grille. Step 4 — Remove the rotors The rotor is mounted to the wheel hub assembly by a T40 Torx screw. Move to the front of the car and look between the slots in the front grill. You might be able to use a very long screwdriver and a flashlight to find the release mechanism from underneath the front of the hood while laying on the ground.
Remove the inner fender well clips and reach in. Once open, lift the prop rod and use it to support the hood. Do you want to reduce the amount of dust your brakes pads release? The hood should pop up slightly when the latch is released, and you will be able to reach in palm down through the gap at the front of the hood and release the emergency catch. This often has a picture of a car with an open hood. This latch is usually at the center or just to one side, and may depress upward or to the side. Usually you will need to push it up so it pivots; pushing it will release the latch mechanism. Stand outside the driver's seat and reach in to hold the interior release in the fully pulled position.
If I pull the cable on the inside of the engine bay to shorten the length at the ends I can get the handle to work again, although not for long. Are your brakes squeaking when you slow down or come to a complete stop? You will have to release the left hand hinge latch pin to close the hood. I hope this helps you get in. Once you open the hood, check to see whether you can slip it back on, or whether the cable has snapped and needs replacement. The video above shows you the location of both hood latches. If you need extra room, the left hand hinge has a latch pin which can be swung inwards to allow the hood to move up to about 50 degrees.
Sometimes, the hood on Mercedes-Benzs gets stuck and won't pop up after the interior latch is released. Most cars are designed to disengage the cable when you press down on the front of the hood. If you can't operate the latch from the front, your last chance is to reach under the hood and attempt to tug the cable with a pair of pliers, or reach all the way to the latch. When working correctly, this causes the hood to move upward a short distance. It may come as a surprise, but one of the most. If your cable is binding and you want to delay the repair, you may want to pre-emptively rig some sort of coat-hanger based hook - or at least familiarize yourself with where the screwdriver has to fit when you have the luxury of an open hood. Pull the cable to pop the hood open.
A release tongue should stick out from the radiator grill when the latch is opened. Place the rotor on the wheel up, and secure it with the T40 Torx screw. I think Army's was most recent. Do this while your assistant pulls the interior latch. Remove the loosened lug nuts, and carefully pull off the wheels. I went to pop the hood on my 86 190d this morning and nothing happened.
If the gaps in the grille are small, use a wire coat hanger instead. I hope that is helpful. Another place to hit is at rear of hood on driver's side. It may come as a surprise, but one of the most. Pull the wire harness connector up and away from unit to disconnect it.
At this point, you need a way to reach the latch or cable from another angle. Once you get your hood open, check for broken latch parts or a frayed cable, which needs replacing. Next, he reattached the latch, and then attached a wire to the latch so that it can be pulled to work the mechanism without the old cable at all, though at the expense of security, because now it can be opened from outside the vehicle, but it's difficult to find unless you know what you're looking for. By pulling on this wire with a set of pliers, the hood can be opened. Pull the caliper off the caliper bracket, and support it with a hook or wire to avoid hanging it from only the brake line.
Or you may be able to get your hand in past the grill, or remove the grill to get your hand to the latch. I have seen other people write about using the car charger that fits into the cigarette lighter but I have no personal knowledge. You can angle a large screwdriver or pry bar through the slats from the drivers side towards the passenger side and push the latching hook back far enough to release. An assistant alternately pressing on the bonnet and releasing will reduce the pressure needed to pull the cable. Just about all cars have a way to adjust the latch. I couldn't find anything on either end to tighten the sheathing to stop it from traveling.