The idea is to not force the hub into the bearing without support to the opposite end inner race. Pick the one that's just slightly smaller than the wheel bearing but fits in the hole in the back of the steering knuckle but will catch the outer shell of the bearing you can check it against the exposed end of the bearing to be sure. Now disconnect the parking brake cable from the housing, and remove the housing from the car. So you are not confused, the speed sensor rotor is the mesh looking like part surrounding the rear portion of the hub. I want to get it right to save my car being off the road.
Remember that bearing push disc you used to remove the bearing? It Should Look Like This. Bust loose the axle retaining nut with the 30mm 12-point socket on your impact gun. It's now 200nm, slacken by 180 degrees, rotate wheel one half turn, give it 50nm then tighten through 60 degrees. Put one of the hardened washers from the wheel bearing removal kit on the end and put the nut on the end. In this case, a smaller puller works well.
A chunk of wood under the end of the breaker bar isn't a bad idea. But if you've never heard it, it usually manifests itself as a deep groaning noise that increases tempo with speed. Begin by jacking up the rear of the car, and removing the rear tire. Please see our article on safely raising and supporting your car. Any thoughts on why the two would be different. On really stuck snaprings it helps to hit the back of the snapring with a chisel to unseat it from its rusted groove. I was wondering if adding grease with a grease needle would be a possibility.
After you get the race out you can cut a slice through it with a cutoff disk. Keep bearing inside to stay warm. If it cannot be pulled off earily, get two small long metric bolts and screw them into the little holes in the brake disk until the brake disk comes off. I've had this happen before. Put a light coat of grease on the hub splines and insert the stub axle through it.
This was a cheap £20 puller kit and has enabled me to do every pulling job on the mk4 so far. The next bit took a bit of balance. It should be the same all the way down. If the Hub is bad, you will need a new Hub as well. The easiest way in my opinion to get this off is to slice down the side with a small cutoff wheel on your rotary tool of choice. Buy a quality bearing or else you will be doing it again soon.
Live and learn: don't forget the circlip. I made that stuff out of plumbing supplies and threaded rod a few years back. Removal and replacement is easy as long as you have the right tools. Any ad showing it pressed as an assembly is either for another application or trick photography in order to sell the assembly, implying an easy installation. Don't let the other end come out of the transmission. Put it all together with the long breaker bar on the back.
I normally put my new bearings in the freezer before I start. Make sure the parking brake is off, so the disk can be removed. I intended this to be cheaper to do for the occasional home mechanic. The side with the bad bearing should be making that gawdawful racket. My own disclaimer is that this procedure is for informational purpose only. This protects the pads from being dragged across the disk lip and causing damage. Even though the Bentley manual does not ask to remove the emergency cable, I found it's simpler to remove it since there will be more maneuverability of the caliper if the cable is removed.
My mate knows about bearings big time so I doubt he would cock it up! I need help once again. Take the car to a guru instead. But it made a horrible noise when I had someone drive the car while I walked slowly next to it. Once they are out remove the caliper and secure it with a rope or cord to the spring. First, get the circlip out of the way.
When replacing bottom ball joints I get the nut loosened which then leaves you with a rotating ball joint and the nut remaining stuck. As you tighten it, it presses the bearing onto the shaft. I also stick the hub in the freezer for the same reason, but I'm not heating the bearing with a propane torch. While some people use a Dermal to partially cut the race and a clod chisel to knock it off you risk damaging the stub axle doing it this way. The longest breaker bar you can find that fits your big sockets. Chock The Rear Wheels - Both Sides.
Now that everything's out and clean, it's time for the 3rd step: Putting the sh! Once it starts to move, don't let up! If you are unhappy doing this then please use a garage. The outboard inner race is stuck on the hub and the inboard bearings and cage are shown here, still installed in the steering knuckle. I used some blocks of wood, and a sledge hammer to pound the Hub into the Housing. Well it didnt go too badly. I was changing the pads so I was quite brutal. The splined end of the drive shaft has to be at least separated from the hub.